Je hoort wijnliefhebbers er regelmatig over: bewaarwijnen. ‘Deze wijn kan nog jaren rijpen!’ of ‘deze is echt nog niet op dronk, pas drinken in 2023.’ Huh, wijn is toch gemaakt om te drinken? De meeste wijn wordt inderdaad gemaakt om binnen een jaar na de oogst te drinken, maar er zijn ook wijnen die beter worden als je ze jarenlang in de kelder legt. Waarom zou je dat doen, en met welke wijnen kan dat?
De ‘normale’ houdbaarheid van ‘normale’ wijnen
De gewone dagelijkse witte wijn kan je 2 – 3 jaar bewaren voor hij ondrinkbaar wordt. Met rode wijn is dit ongeveer vijf jaar. Let wel dat je ze dan op de goede manier bewaart.
Waarom zou je wijn bewaren?
Dat is ook leuk, een kelder vol met wijn waar je niet aan mag komen. Je leeft toch nu, dan wil je toch ook die wijn die je nu koopt nu drinken? Ja, dat kan, maar sommige wijnen worden heel veel beter als je ze wat jaartjes in de kelder legt (mits onder goede omstandigheden, lees hier meer over hoe je wijn goed kan bewaren).
Let wel: dit kan met de meeste wijnen niet, die worden eigenlijk alleen maar minder lekker als je ze bewaart, later in dit artikel meer daarover.
Flesrijping doet een aantal dingen met een wijn. Ten eerste kan flesrijping tannines verzachten. Sommige wijnen hebben jong heel veel strakke, droge tannines, die nog niet prettig smaken en niet fijn aanvoelen in de mond. Door de jaren heen worden deze tannines zachter en fluweliger. Zuren worden ook minder, en minder hard.
De primaire fruitaroma’s (van bijvoorbeeld kersen en bramen) kunnen aanwezig blijven, maar worden meestal minder en er komen tertiaire aroma’s bij. Dit kunnen bij rood geuren en smaken zijn van bijvoorbeeld paddenstoelen, bosgrond, vlees, leer, boerenerf, aarde en natte bladeren. Bij wit kunnen aroma’s ontstaan van bijvoorbeeld benzine, kaneel, gember, nootmuskaat, hooi of honing.
Niet iedereen vindt dit lekker, trouwens. Probeer eens een flesgerijpte wijn te proeven, bij een wijnbar of proeverij. Als je er niet van houdt, heeft het ook geen zin om wijn lang te bewaren. Behalve als je wijn koopt als investering, maar dat is weer een heel ander verhaal.
Welke wijn wordt beter van flesrijping?
Wijnmakers maken een wijn met een idee, met een visie. Als je bij een wijnmaker op bezoek bent, zal je hem of haar ook snel horen over de wijnen die je lang kan laten liggen: vaak zijn dit kwalitatief de beste wijnen die het huis maakt – en vaak ook de duurdere.
Je kan aan de buitenkant van de fles helaas niet zien of je een wijn beter vandaag kan drinken of over vijf jaar. Gelukkig geven wijnwinkels daar wel steeds vaker advies over, en daar kan je ook gewoon naar vragen.
Door de boot genomen heeft een wijn een paar elementen nodig om beter te worden van flesrijping. Dan hebben we het over zuren en tannines. Zuren en tannines vertragen het oxidatieproces van de wijn en werken als het ware als conserveermiddelen. Dus: wijn met veel tannine en veel zuur kan je over het algemeen beter bewaren dan wijn die dit niet heeft.
Witte wijn drink je over het algemeen jong omdat ze geen tannines en niet altijd veel zuur hebben, maar bijvoorbeeld goede Riesling, Chenin Blanc en Semillon kan je wel jarenlang wegleggen en rijpen fantastisch.
Wijnen die je móet rijpen
Er zijn wijnen die jong op de markt kopen, maar die je dan beter nog niet kan drinken. De wijn is jong nog veel te gesloten, kan veel tannine en zuur hebben en nog niet op dronk zijn. Bewaren dus!
Niet alle wijnhuizen brengen hun wijn meteen op de markt, maar laten deze zelf op de fles rijpen voor ze ze verkopen. Dat is ideaal, maar ook duurder.
Wijnen die overal het algemeen beter worden van flesrijping
Er zijn geen echte ‘regels’ wat dit betreft, maar er zijn echt wel een paar soorten wijnen die over het algemeen beter worden van flesrijping. Houd er wel rekening mee dat je een kwalitatief goede wijn moet hebben, vind je bijvoorbeeld een hele goedkope Barolo of Amarone, dan kan ik je aanraden deze niet te lang te bewaren.
5 – 10 jaar:
- Meeste cabernet franc
- Sommige Pinot Noir
- Syrah
- Oude wereld Merlot
- Malbec
- Grenache
- Carmenere
- Nero d’Avola
- Pinotage
- Aglianico
- Sangiovese
- Chianti
- Reserva Rioja
- Super Tuscans
- Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
10 – 20 jaar:
- Sommige goede Riesling
- Nebbiolo
- Tannat
- Sagrantino
- Meeste Cabernet Sauvignon
- Sommige Tempranillo
- Sommige Sangiovese
- Amarone
- Dulce Monastrell (zoet rood)
- Brunello di Montalcino
- Barolo
- Barbaresco
- Rode Bordeaux
- Rode Douro
- Bandol
Mijn ervaring met flesgerijpte wijnen
Het mooie van wijnen die flesrijping hebben gehad vind ik persoonlijk dat ze zo complex worden: je kan wel blíjven ruiken en proeven. In elk slokje ontdek je weer wat anders en dat is waanzinnig. Daarnaast houd ik persoonlijk erg van de aroma’s en smaken die ontwikkelen door flesrijping, zoals chocolade, paddenstoelen, bosgrond, leer… Dat zijn sowieso mijn favoriete smaken en geuren, helemaal top dus.
Ik heb verschillende flesgerijpte wijnen geproefd, van Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese van 7 jaar oud (noten!), Rioja Gran Reserva’s (bosgrond en paddenstoelen) en een Champagne uit 1992 (!). Deze had enorm veel toastsmaken ontwikkeld, met daarbij amandelen, tabak en overrijp fruit. Oudere Riesling krijgt waanzinnige petrol-aroma’s en kan ook honing- en wasachtige smaken ontwikkelen. En de frisheid blijft!
Maar ook bij bijvoorbeeld een Bourgogne van ‘nog maar’ vier jaar oud proef ik al wat rijpingssmaken zoals honing en wasachtige tonen, die de jonge variant uit 2017 nog niet had. Subtiel, maar ook al erg lekker. En een indicatie van hoe de wijn zich nog verder gaat ontwikkelen.
Ik ben zelf een kleine voorraad in mijn kelder aan het opbouwen die ik een aantal jaar wil laten liggen. Dit zijn vooral Duitse wijnen (omdat ik daar zelf het meest bij wijnboeren ben geweest), een aantal Rieslings en Spätburgunders. Ook ligt er een mooie Amarone die ik voorlopig nog niet ga openmaken. Gelukkig ligt er genoeg wat ik wel dit weekend kan drinken, dus ik denk dat ik er nog wel even af kan blijven. 🙂
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Leuke blog!
Er worden inderdaad tegenwoordig nog maar weinig wijnen verkocht om te bewaren. Je zou zeggen ‘haast ook niet nodig’ met goede wijnzaken in de buurt. Echter, als je van tertiaire smaken houdt is het leuk om wijnen te bewaren. Ik denk er ook over om in mijn Assendorpse kelder een kleine voorraad aan te leggen. Eerst maar eens verdiepen in de omstandigheden wijn te bewaren (en de kelder opruimen :-p).
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