
Je proeft weleens wijnen die je blijven verrassen. Bij elke slok, elk glas, elke fles. Een wijn die bij mijn vriend en mij al jaren favoriet is, is de Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Ferment. Een Griekse wijn die we ‘ontdekten’ op Schiermonnikoog.
Je proeft weleens wijnen die je blijven verrassen. Bij elke slok, elk glas, elke fles. Een wijn die bij mijn vriend en mij al jaren favoriet is, is de Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Ferment. Een Griekse wijn die we ‘ontdekten’ op Schiermonnikoog.
Santorini ontdekken op Schiermonnikoog
Jaren geleden verraste mijn vriend me met een tripje naar Schiermonnikoog: die dag hadden we ons zesjarig jubileum en (niet geheel Willem-eigen) plande hij een weekend met lekker slapen en lekker eten. In de avond gingen we op het kleine eiland eten bij restaurant De Ambrozijn. Beide geen idee van wijn destijds, behalve dat we soms wel wisten wat we lekker vonden. Al proef ik nu wel weer eens iets wat ik in 2015 graag dronk en dan ben ik nu toch wel van gedachten verandert… Maar niet met de Assyrtiko van Gaia. Toen al onder de indruk, wát een lekkere wijn, en nu jaren later zijn we er nog steeds helemaal gek op. Tijd om er wat meer over te vertellen.
De wijn krijgt trouwens aardig wat bekijks: van Decanter krijgt ‘ie 97 punten, 90 punten van The Wine Advocate en van Harold Hamersma een 9+.
Assyrtiko
Laten we beginnen met de druif. Waar het allemaal om draait. De Assyrtiko druif is een inheemse Griekse. Het is het op twee na meest aangeplante witte ras in Griekenland en op het eiland Santorini is ongeveer 70% van de wijngaarden Assyrtiko.
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Er zijn veel oude stokken op het eiland, waarvan sommigen wel 500 jaar oud zijn, maar de meesten 60 tot 250 jaar. Het eiland is heel gevarieerd: verschillende hoogtes, breedtegraden en bodems zorgen voor heel verschillende wijnen. Door de vulkanische grond krijgen de meeste wijnen iets mineraal en steen-achtigs in de smaak. Inmiddels wordt de druif ook zoetjesaan verbouwd in Noord-Italië en in de Clare Valley in Australië.
Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Ferment: maakproces
De druiven voor deze wijn worden verbouwd in een hoger gelegen deel van de wijngaarden, waardoor de druif aromatischer wordt. Ook zijn de stokken 80 jaar oud. Na 12 uur contact met de schillen rond de 10 graden Celsius wordt het sap in 1.000 liter RVS tanks en in nieuwe Franse eiken vaten van 225 liter gedaan. Het grootste deel van de wijn wordt op RVS vergist, wat geen smaken afgeeft, en een kleiner deel in het nieuwe Franse eiken, wat wel resulteert in nieuwe smaken én meer body in de uiteindelijke wijn. De temperatuur kan tijdens de vergisting op natuurlijke wijze verhogen, zonder dat de wijnmaker daarbij komt.
Er ontstaat een spontane vergisting, zonder tussenkomst. In elk vat gebeurt iets anders, in elk vat zijn van nature andere gisten aanwezig. Pas na de vergisting wordt alles geproefd en dan wordt besloten wat ze gaan gebruiken en wat ze met elkaar gaan mengen en in welke verhoudingen.
Het bijzondere van zo’n vergisting is dat je als wijnmaker nooit precies weet wat je krijgt. Als je een commercieel gist toevoegt aan je most, weet je ongeveer wat er met je vergistende sap gebeurt. In dit geval heb je als wijnmaker geen idee. Daardoor is de wijn ook elk jaar subtiel anders.
Gaia adviseert de wijn tot twee a drie jaar in de kelder te laten liggen en volgens hun zal het grote veranderingen ondergaan, met smaken van honing, fruit en de ontwikkeling van meer body. Ik heb hem vooralsnog alleen maar jong gedronken, maar ga ook zeker wat flessen wegleggen om ze over een paar jaar te proberen.
Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Ferment: de smaak
Van deze wijn heb ik al heel wat glazen gedronken en vanzelfsprekend heel wat flessen opengemaakt. Met elke slok blijft ‘ie spannend, en als het glas leeg is schenk je hem het liefst meteen weer helemaal vol. Maar: wel lekker doordrinkbaar. Het is geen wijn waar je heel moeilijk bij na moet denken en die ‘interessant is, maar of ik hem nou écht lekker vind…’ Nee, deze heeft beide. En dat frisse doordrinkbare, én het bijzondere spannende.
In de Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Ferment proef je goed dat de druiven opgegroeid zijn op vulkanische bodem. Ondanks de warme temperaturen is de wijn goed friszuur, mooi in balans met de minerale, steenachtige smaken. Het fruit staat op de voorgrond, met rijpe peren, perziken en een beetje citroen, maar ook vlierbloesem, gras en wat toastachtige smaken. De afdronk is lang: ik blijf de smaak nog lang proeven en dan… wil ik nog een slok.
Waar te koop
De Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Ferment is voor €22,45 te koop bij Les Genereux wijnwinkels, zoals mijn vaste honk Mondovino. Niet goedkoop, maar deze wijn is het écht waard.
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